Le Cochon à l’oreille

Here’s a place where traces of the past can still be felt: Les Halles, nicknamed the ‘belly of Paris’ by Émile Zola. It was a time when Les Halles was bustling from two o’clock in the morning, with 10,000 merchants and workers, as well as 20,000 to 40,000 shopkeepers, restaurateurs and private individuals gathering at the market. By 11 a.m., the market was almost over, but appetites were still plentiful. The area was full of restaurants ready to satisfy them.

This historic heritage is just over a 10-minute walk from the Relais du Louvre, opposite the Comptoir de la Gastronomie, which we also tested for you. (read our article)

The decor has remained true to the Belle Époque period. It features earthenware murals illustrating the district’s activity in the 19th century, produced by the Boulanger earthenware factory, which made the famous beveled stoneware tiles used in the Paris metro.

The restaurant’s chef, Téo Apostolski, whose background includes Robuchon, Ducasse and Conticini, is no stranger to music.

This restaurant will appeal to those who appreciate places steeped in history, but will also appeal to lovers of traditional family cuisine at very affordable prices. The house offers a complete daily menu at a very respectable 25 euros, as well as a balanced and varied à la carte menu.

Onion soup is one of the starters on the menu, priced at €13. It stands out for the richness of its fragrant beef broth and the generosity of its Comté cheese, both in taste and quantity.

Beet with parsley vinaigrette was the starter of the day. A simple, unpretentious dish, but well interpreted with good produce.

On the à la carte menu, at €19, a traditional Aveyron sausage served with mashed potatoes and gravy. A dish we appreciated, as we’re fond of good local cuisine.

Also on the menu was an excellent duck breast, very tender and tasty, served with sauteed potatoes. To accompany this meal, we opted for a glass of Gamay varietal red wine: fresh, juicy, gourmet and easy to match. The pencil on the wine prices is less timid than the rest of the menu. A glass costs €8.50, but it leaves an excellent impression.

There’s nothing left of the delicious chocolate moelleux we shared on the menu. Not even its photo, forgotten in our rush to test this valiant competitor to our culinary appreciation!

Our neighbor, a food critic, seems to have fallen to his knees in front of his baba au rhum, which claims to be one of the best in Paris. We’ll try it next time.

In short, it’s a charming play that’s performed here with a setting that leaves a memory, a demanding cast and good acting. Well worth a detour.

Le Cochon à l’Oreille
15 Rue Montmartre, 75001 Paris
https://www.lecochonaloreille.com/